Stage 26: Villafranca to Las Herrerias (24 km--24 degrees)

Three routes led out of Villafranca this morning:  one along the highway all the way, one up a big hill for the first part and then along the highway the rest of the way, and one which avoids the highway completely by going over several hills (the Dragonte route).  We chose the second option, and had a lovely hike to our destination of the day.  Our path immediately started uphill, taking us through trees as well as some open areas.  Soon we were walking along the hilltops/ridge, higher than the power lines and we could see beautiful scenery all around us.  Down in the valley below, we observed other peregrinos following the highway route.  All of a sudden, on the path in front of us, was standing a deer!  We approached quietly and she jumped into the grass to our left; we couldn't see her anymore, but the buck was standing there peering at us (for a moment)!  In a few kilometers, we reached a quiet village located on a hilltop and surrounded by huge, lush vegetable gardens.  We stopped for a coffee and the very hospitable owner served us her delicious homemade chips with garlic mayonnaise and chestnut cake (all main ingredients which they grow themselves).
From there, our path descended and then began to follow the highway.  It's a secondary highway, following the valley bottom, and the traffic was light, so we found it ok.  Nearby, we could see the autoroute, going through tunnels and along highly elevated sections way above us and the villages.  I've tried to give a sense of the height of it in one of the photos.  We were so relieved that we didn't have to walk (or drive) on that!
Our supper was a tasty vegetarian meal, enjoyed communally with other peregrinos from Canada and Italy.

Stage 25 Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo (29 km. -- perfect temp 20 degrees)

We left Ponferrada equiped with headlamps, followed the markers and lighted pathway until we hit the 200 km marker!!! It is hard to believe that we are three quarters of the way to Santiago. The core of Ponferrada seemed tired and run down while the outer areas had beautiful huge homes. There was a noticeable difference between the struggling inner core and the wealthy outer limits. This is different from the other larger centres we have visited which seem to have a fairly vibrant centre.

Everything about today's journey was perfect! The weather pleased everyone, the trail was easy on the feet and there was just enough ups and downs to please Jim and not enough to displease Laurel and I. We walked along rivers, through vineyards, picturesque villages, and felt like we were above the clouds are times. I had the opportunity to buy a baguette from a baker's truck that delivers fresh baked goods to the villages. Trucks drive up and down the street honking their horn to alert the townspeople of their arrival much the same as our ice-cream trucks. We also stopped at an unique coffee shop where Jim enjoyed his second cup and Laurel and I drank fresh watermelon juice-Delicious!

'The fruits of some one's labour and a taste of the stolen'
We are certainly back into wine country however there are many other kinds of fruit grown in families' yards. Below you will see grapes, pears, peaches, cherries, limes, unknown but surely a fruit, passion fruit and I threw in one blooming potato plant for my mom. We also tasted some of this fruit when one of us happened upon cherries close to the path.

Stage 24: Foncebadon to Ponferrada (28 km--9-26 degrees)

A howling wind greeted us when we woke at 5:00 in the tiny village (ghost town) of Foncebadon.  It reminded us that the forecast low was 8 degrees.  We all dressed for maximum coverage, Laurel even had socks on her hands at one point.  Our path followed a foggy, cold, wind-swept ridge past the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross), the spot where we deposited our stones the day before.  Cows and other hikers appeared and faded away in the mist as we plodded along to the end of the ridge and we begun a decent that would last most of the day.  Down, down, down we went, our minds began to wander as well. "When will it stop, I don't remember climbing that high?", "We missed second breakfast, I'm hungry!", "Where's the Tiger Balm, my legs hurt?"  

After three hours the fog lifted and we saw how beautiful the scenery actually was.  We descended through mountain villages that were just waking up, but had no coffee or bathrooms to offer.  The village of Molinaseca welcomed us at 10:30 and we stayed for a picnic lunch beside the river. The remainder of the walk to Ponferrada was flat and beside a busy highway.  The temperature had risen to 26 degrees by the time we checked into our hotel.

After showers, we headed out for supper at 16:00 and to explore the Templar castle in the centre of town.  We were back in our room and complaining about the heat by 7:00 pm--too cold and too hot in the same day!

Trusting Neighbours

The Maragato people that founded the village of Castrillo de Los Povazares (see Stage 22) were so honest that, in the past, when they went away, they would leave the key in the door so if their neighbours needed anything they could go in and help themselves.  Today we can still see the large and ornate door locks but without the keys.  Either the Maragato no longer trust their neighbours or all the keys have been stolen!

Stage 23: Castrillo de Los Polvazares to Foncebadon (24 kms--17 degrees)

Today, we had big changes in the weather and the scenery -- both shifts were quite welcome!  The temperature cooled down, which along with a breeze, made our hiking much more comfortable than the sweltering heat of the past few days.  The trail was more shady and took us higher up, though at a gentle rate that was not tiring.  Since sun-up, ahead of us, we could see the mountains of Galicia, and reached them by the time we stopped for the day at 11:30 am.   Along the way, we passed through pretty villages of stone houses, roses, bustling albergues, and coffee stops.  It was a thrill to share the trail for the first time with peregrinos travelling on horseback; when we arrived in Foncebadon (our stop for the night), there they were again, the horses feeding on grass while the pilgrims grabbed a coffee!  Other animals we saw today were cats, dogs, rabbits, cows, a donkey, a fox, and a woodpecker.  Foncebadon was practically a ghost town, down to a population of just two people in the 1990s, but has been revived by the opening of four albergues in recent years, thanks to the increasing popularity of the Camino.

Two kms past Foncebadon, is the highest elevation on the entire Camino.  An iron cross atop a high pole marks the spot.  Over the years, peregrinos have placed stones there from around the world, accompanied by prayers and messages of hope, so that now there is a large pile of stones at the base.  We walked there in the afternoon, and added our stones and wishes, too.  Early tomorrow morning, we will pass there again, but it most likely will still be quite dark.

Skies of the Meseta

Yesterday, we finally reached the end of the long, flat, hot Meseta and transitioned to our next section, which is through the cooler Cantabrian Mountains into Galicia.  Our stopping point for tonight (July11) is the village of Foncebadon; it is positioned high up where we can look back to see the Meseta stretching out behind us as far as we can see . . . seeing that, we can hardly believe that we walked the length of it!  The top photos show some skies of the Meseta from various points along the way; the last photo is the view over the Meseta from Foncebadon.

Historic Muleteer Village

Castrillo de los Polvazares is a village situated in Leon, in North-west of Spain. It's important due to its history, as one of the few places of the "Maragatería" which still keeps its traditions and was one of the main resistances against the French conquests.