Stage 14: Burgos to Hontanas (24 km--24 degrees)

Burgos was exhilarating, exciting, and unexpected, everything but restful! I feel like we began today sleep-walking; how could we rest in a city that never seems to go to bed? As with Logrono and Pamplona, we took a cab to the edge of the city to begin our walk in a rural rather than urban setting. Storks on top of the Catholic Church welcomed us to the hamlet of Rabe de la Calzadas. They have taken up residence in most churches and seen to be in cahoots with the local parishes, protesting any notions of birth control.

Small towns soon gave way to the meseta, the endless plains of Spain, which, by the way, is not where it rains! This will be our terrain for the next eight or nine days. We walked most of the way without a break, then stopped just outside our destination and had a picnic lunch beside a shrine for Saint Bridget of Sweden. We have been eating like hobbits since starting the camino--breakfast at 5:00, second breakfast at 9:00, "elevensies", and lunch or tea depending on what's open!

The village dog allowed us entry into Hontanas and we checked into a wonderful hostel with three beds and a hot shower--who could want more? Two more pages of stamps fill our credentials. Only 456 km to go!

Burgos Beauties!

Touring the Burgos Cathedral.

Rest Day: Burgos (28 degrees)

Just a small sampling of the beautiful and varied traditional attire being worn by people of Burgos during the Festival of San Pedro and San Pablo

Some other scenes from our wanderings around Burgos on June 29, 2016

Wow!  We went out this morning thinking we'd have a quiet stroll around the Cathedral of Burgos, but to our surprise, instead found ourselves in the midst of the main festivities marking the Fiesta of San Pedro and San Pablo!  First, there was a parade of hundreds of men, women, children, and musicians dressed in amazing traditional attire and carrying fresh flowers, which they delivered to the Cathedral, where the blooms were placed into large trellises displayed outside the church.  Afterward, everyone (including ourselves) wandered about the town squares, narrow streets, and parks just enjoying the festive atmosphere and the show of culture, as well as some refreshments here and there.  Fireworks, as brilliantly seen from the balcony of our apartment, round off the evening on a celebratory note!  We had very fortuitously chosen the best possible rest day to be in Burgos!

More Great Knockers of the Camino!

I know that since this is my second instalment in this theme, that only the hardware nerds are tuning in now.

Stage 13: Atapuerca to Burgos (21 km - 24 degrees)

I truly found my final resting spot in Atapuerca with my beloved poppies. I am sure I have over 100 photos of poppies on my phone!
Today's journey was a kilometre and a half up, marked by a cross at the top, then a short plateau where we could spot our end destination (Burgos) on the distance, some 16 kilometres away. We passed several unique stone structures and marked our 300 km milestone--just 500 left to go!

500 km to go!

We are meeting some real pilgrims of life along the way. Today I met a young girl who has chosen to walk in fairly flimsy sandals and to be mute for two weeks. She would mouth responses to my questions and even managed to ask questions without using verbal language. I have included a photo of some discarded boots which are seen daily, however this weary pilgrim at least chose a spot where poppies beautify them! The last 6 or so km into Burgos was along a river not unlike my Massawippi. It was a well used trail by  locals for walking, jogging, biking, swimming and fishing. You can see that the young artists are active here also.

Arrival in Burgos was breathtaking! I think that this is the most beautiful city in my travelling log. I can't wait to explore more of what it has to offer on our rest day tomorrow.
We have once again arrived in a city in the midst of a fiesta--this one being the fiesta patronales San Pedro y San Pablo. The 'Giants' joined us in the square as we were eating our lunch. Jim and Laurel had previously seen them in Pamplona but for a first timer they are pretty impressive! Stay tuned for tomorrow's blog to really see the beauty of Burgos!

The Ups and Downs of the Camino!

Stage 12: Belorado to Atapuerca (31 km--24 degrees)

 

We had a great supper last night at the neighbouring albergue.  We are starting to get to know many of the other peregrinos traveling at our pace.

Today we walked over 30 kilometres and so our day began early and we were on the trail by 5:30.  As the sun rose, we left both the weather and terrain of the past couple of days behind us.  Clear skies of cobalt blue and forests of pine and oak gave us a different perspective and helped us forget that we had a long way to go.  At various rest stops throughout the day we continued our conversations with the different people we have met and became acquainted with a few more.  We are starting to feel like we are part of a community and it is a nice feeling.  This has taken longer for us as we have not been staying in the large communal albergues and opting instead for smaller ones with triple rooms.  These allow us to get an early start without waking up a dozen or so other pilgrims.  It also means that the snoring is reduced to only three as well--another bonus.

We climbed and descended a couple of ranges of big hills and eventually found ourselves on a high wide open plateau with beautiful expansive view.  A few kilometres later we walked into Atapuerca, our home for tonight and, as we just found out, the site of a prehistoric archeological dig.  More on that later.

Flora and Fauna Along the Camino

Stage 11: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belarado (23 km--17 degrees)

Top collage:  snapshots from our evening in Santo Domingo de la Calzada (June 25, 2016) -- a creatively designed peregrino water fountain; a drumming troupe which "beat" their way through the streets; Jim experiencing a close shave; a medieval passageway beside the cathedral

Middle collage:  leaving town at 6:00 am; sunrise behind us as we walked; a cross along the way; coffee and "2nd breakfast" (and bathroom break) at Granon; admiring the scenery

Bottom collage:  arrival at our destination (Belarado) -- church we see from our albergue (note the stork nests on top and the building built into the rocky hillside behind); waiting until 12:00 to check in; our room; elevating our feet right after check-in (got one blister on the trek today); town square

No more olive groves, no more vineyards -- we have left these behind us in the province of La Rioja, as we crossed the border today into the province of Castille y Leon.  Now the Camino leads us through abundant crops of grains, potatoes, peas, and sunflowers, as far as the eye can see, across the rolling hills.  Our trail is gentle and the sky is cloudy, so we make faster time (averaging 5 kms per hour).  Halfway along, I (Laurel) started to feel sandpaper in the toe of one shoe; a quick inspection revealed a dreaded blister!  Luckily, on the spot at the side of the trail, Jim was able to expertly apply a gel-lined "toe toque" that Betty had available.  I subsequently made it to our destination of the day, Belorado.  

Stage 10: Najera To Santa Domingo de la Calzadaza (21 km--16 degrees)

Last night we observed the San Jaun Bautistas (St. John the Baptist) celebration in Najera. Thousands of youth aged 14-20 took over the town and partied the night away. I am not sure what St. John the Baptist thought about his celebration but the youth certainly enjoyed it! I included two photos to show first of all the youth and secondly the mess this morning as we left the town.

We had a short day walking only 21 km in a lovely cool temperature on a fairly flat trail. Although the sky was overcast the light was fantastic at times as evidenced in a few photos. We are now checked into a hotel with a TUB so we feel like we are having a spa day.
I have included one grid for the Grand babies!
Still loving our journey...

Stage 9: Logrono to Najera (25.5 km--22 degrees)

Thanks to Logrono, we were well rested and in clean clothes. We woke early and caught a taxi to a park on the edge of the city so that we could begin our walk with swans and rabbits instead of cars. Betty's back and Laurel's knees were stiff, but we made good time on the easiest trail so far as clouds and a gentle breeze kept us cool. We ate lunch on the the trail and arrived in Najera at 12:30, in the middle of the Fiesta de San Juan. I am not sure but I think he is the patron saint of Spring Break or drunken debauchery. We showered, quickly lined up for grilled meat and ended the day with a cup of tea at the hostel (7:00pm).

Rest Day: Logrono (35 degrees)

A much needed rest day for our tired feet -- and Logrono has been a great spot to spend it in!  When in Rome (or Logrono, in this case), do as the locals do and take in the sounds and tastes on the famous Calle del Laurel (Laurel Street), just below our apartment.  The pinxos, or tapas, are truly works of art and, as it's so difficult to choose, we tried many different ones!  And they were ALL delicious.  Of course, this being a wine region of Spain, Jim and Laurel washed them down with vino and Betty used sparkling water.  

While here, we have also shopped for sun-glasses, explored the old town, relaxed in Miguel's Airbnb apartment, and indulged in more pinxos!  We're savouring it all, as tomorrow morning we'll be back on the trail.

Crops of the Camino

Sent from my iPad

Stage 8: Los Arcos to Logrono (30km--29 degrees)

We left this morning at 4:45 and walked into the daylight. The first set of photos were taken before full sunrise. The morning temperature (19) made for a comfortable first stretch. The second set of photos show a few of the different trails we walked today. We certainly appreciated the shady ones and felt fairly fortunate to have a bit of a breeze most of the way. We arrived in Logrono around 11:30 and collapsed at the pilgrim foot fountain at the edge of town. We are booked into an apartment overlooking Laurel Street where we will spend an extra rest day. I (Betty) will post some pictures for our Prairie friends and relatives. All three of us are taken by the beauty in the crops!

Flowers of the Navarra Region

Stage 7: Estella to Los Arcos (22 km--33 degrees)

Bunions, corns and wonkie knees are not the signs of old age!  However, talking about them for six straight hours might be!  I have alway thought that walking was a great catalyst for great conversations. We are old but I think we are prevailing.

Yesterday hinted at today's temperature and so we got up two hours before the crack of dawn and hit the trail at 5:15.  We watched the sun rise and slowly diminish our long shadows until it was beating straight overhead and telling us to stop for a break.  When Laurel and Betty literally started cutting corners, we gave into the heat and stopped.  Our picnic lunch in a vineyard recharged us and helped to quicken our pace.   I think starting in the dark is a good way to avoid the heat but it does have drawbacks--today we missed the turn off for the only wine fountain on the Camino and I had to settle for water again!!!

Fields of wheat, barley, and canola; vineyards and olive orchards were the backdrop to our winding path.  The walk was gentle and not so long, yet we all had something to complain about.  We were grateful to arrive in Los Arcos before noon and we were grateful to have each other to listen to and complain to.

Stage 6: Obanos to Estella (27 km--29 degrees)

We hit the trail with the light of the moon, and walked and walked and walked as the day revealed itself to be the clearest, sunniest, and hottest so far at 29 degrees (but no doubt, later on, this will be "cool" in comparison).  The windmills, which were so huge as we had passed below them yesterday, now shrank and then disappeared on the horizon behind us.  In front of us appeared vineyards and olive groves.  Along the way, we crossed over numerous Roman stone bridges and wended our way through beautiful villages.  Now for an early bedtime and a good night's sleep in this monastery with simple, modern bedrooms.

Stage 5: Pamplona to Obanos (22 km--19 degrees)

Another stellar day and a Very exciting one for me (Betty) as we arrived at the Camino cutouts! We had a snack while we watched a school group pose for photos. I thought of my teacher friends. This would be quite the field trip! The weather is still cooperating and we are seeing amazing scenery and some pretty touching pilgrims--a grandma and her grandson, a father and his challenged son sharing their backpack. We are all healthy and after today's walk Laurel's knee, although still sore, seems no worse.

Rest Day: Pamplona (17 degrees)

Laurel found us an apt. on Airbnb and we rested and soaked up the city of Pamplona.  The place was owned by a lady from Vancouver and she really went the extra mile to make us comfortable.  We had the best sleeps of our trip so far, not even the exuberant soccer fans celebrating Spain's 3-0 win over Turkey (until 4:30 in the morning) could thwart that!  Question: What do perigrinos do on a rest day?  Answer: they do a 15 km walking tour of the city!  We traced the running of the bulls circuit and saw every church in Pamplona.  Being Saturday, there was lots going on with markets, concerts, and impromptu parades/dances (soccer fans again).  By the time siesta rolled around we were beat and retired for the day.  Tomorrow we are back on the trail--Buen Camino!

Best Knockers on the Camino (so far)!

If flowers aren't your thing, I thought this post would grab our nephews' attention!

Stage 4: Larrasoana to Pamplona (17 kms--20 degrees)

We set off into the fog in the early morning!  The weather suited us all the way to Pamplona, with the rain kindly holding off until we were safely checked into our apartment, at which time it began to pour.  The ancient bridge made for an impressive entrance into the city.  Unfortunately, my (Laurel's) knee took a beating on the steep downhill slopes of the Pyrenees the other day and is now wrapped in a tensor bandage--hopefully a couple of rest days here in Pamplona will help.  At least my pace is  faster than the snails along the Camino (see photo above)!

Pyrenees Flowers

Flowers of the Pyrenees Mountains and foothills along the Camino

Stage 3: Burguete to Larrasoano--part 2

More pictures from Day 3

Stage 3: Burguete to Larrasoano (25 km--20 degrees)

Another perfect day! Although the forecast predicted 10-15 mm of rain we did not see it. In fact it was a very comfortable weather for today's hike. We spent last night in Hostel Burguete which was a favourite of Hemmingway and is mentioned in The Sun Also Rises. You will note, however, that it
has not improved my writing style.

For all of my (Betty's) flower loving friends, stay tuned for Laurel's photos. We are constantly amazed by the diversity of flowers, flowering shrubs and trees.

No blisters yet although we have discovered some new muscles.

Stage 2: Orisson to Burguete (23 km Up & Down!--18 degrees)

Last night we met our fellow perigrinos and enjoyed a wonderful supper together at the albergue. While having coffee, as if on cue, a rainbow appeared outside and everyone rushed out to take a picture.

We turned in early and had a pretty good sleep (only one snorer in our hostel room and it wasn't Jim!). We woke at six and after a breakfast of toast and strong coffee we headed out to cross the Pyrenees. We started out with about 20 other hikers but soon it was just us and the sheep. Rain threatened but never materialized and we walked in pleasant cool temperatures all day. Going up was not as tough as we thought it would be, but going down into Ronsevalle was far worse. We missed the general ascent route and took an express route down--our knees and shins did not like it!

The good news is we are finished the hardest part of the journey. Two days down, 33 more go and no blisters yet!!!

Stage 1: St Jean pied de port to Orisson (8 km Straight up!--18 degrees)

A perfect first day! From St. Jean-Pied-de-Port to Orisson (France) 8 kms up a steep hill in the Pyrenees -- perfect scenery, perfect trail, perfect weather, perfect company! Our reward is showers and a pitcher of sangria and a can of Coke on a terrace looking out over green mountains and valleys dotted with grazing sheep.

Here we go!

We all made it to Toronto and now we are off to Madrid.